Applying veneers is much more art then a science. The general idea is creating something which is natural and clean while not appearing to be artificial in any way. Understanding what they are and what they are made from can assist the typical homeowner with a level of achievement that could look as good as professional jobs. It may help to look at different application techniques as well.
Stone veneers commonly are used as primary protective coverings for vertical surface applications that are outside as well as inside. They are also used for visual enhancement on pillars, fireplaces, and walls. As a naturally durable product, stone adds a natural appearing beauty to almost all projects.
Manufactured veneer is constructed from molds of actual stones using aggregates that are generally lighter than actual stones. Because a manufactured veneer is lighter weight, they generally are easier to install using adhesive and mortar. Generally they can be used in several places where heaver natural stone is not a good option because they are lighter. They also have more uniform shapes and sizes.
Natural stone veneer is real stone that is collected from fields or dug up in quarries. It is typically cut to a consistent shape and size before being shipped to stores. Because of its greater weight it generally requires ties for installation as well as larger footings at the base of the walls.
Generally manufactured veneer will be more inexpensive than a natural stone. It can cost 1/2 - 1/3 the cost of a natural stone. Along with its being much easier to use because it's a cast form stone there is typically less waste afterward as well.
Installing your veneer is a straight forward procedure that is typically the same with man made or natural type stones. Cover your surface with a metal lathing for some added structural strength using screws or nails at least 1 1/2 inch to two inches in length. Never put the screws or nails or more than six inches spaced apart on your wall. Overlap all your joints, and try not to leave a seam on any corner because this can causes structural weakness.
Put on a thin scratch coat of mortar on top of the metal lathing and permit it to completely dry. Make sure your lath is covered completely. Before it dries out, scratch some lines on it with a mason's scratcher or small hand rake.
Dry fit common stones around six to eight at a time. Put one half to three quarters of an inch of working mortar onto the backside of the stone and set it on the surface. Gingerly wiggle the stone while holding it until it is firmly set into place.
To finish up your art after it has dried up completely, go over the joints with mortar pushing it as far as possible into the joint. Most stone veneers can also be treated using a sealer to help stop discoloration or other unwanted effects. Ultimately your artwork is about as far away as your local hardware store.
Stone veneers commonly are used as primary protective coverings for vertical surface applications that are outside as well as inside. They are also used for visual enhancement on pillars, fireplaces, and walls. As a naturally durable product, stone adds a natural appearing beauty to almost all projects.
Manufactured veneer is constructed from molds of actual stones using aggregates that are generally lighter than actual stones. Because a manufactured veneer is lighter weight, they generally are easier to install using adhesive and mortar. Generally they can be used in several places where heaver natural stone is not a good option because they are lighter. They also have more uniform shapes and sizes.
Natural stone veneer is real stone that is collected from fields or dug up in quarries. It is typically cut to a consistent shape and size before being shipped to stores. Because of its greater weight it generally requires ties for installation as well as larger footings at the base of the walls.
Generally manufactured veneer will be more inexpensive than a natural stone. It can cost 1/2 - 1/3 the cost of a natural stone. Along with its being much easier to use because it's a cast form stone there is typically less waste afterward as well.
Installing your veneer is a straight forward procedure that is typically the same with man made or natural type stones. Cover your surface with a metal lathing for some added structural strength using screws or nails at least 1 1/2 inch to two inches in length. Never put the screws or nails or more than six inches spaced apart on your wall. Overlap all your joints, and try not to leave a seam on any corner because this can causes structural weakness.
Put on a thin scratch coat of mortar on top of the metal lathing and permit it to completely dry. Make sure your lath is covered completely. Before it dries out, scratch some lines on it with a mason's scratcher or small hand rake.
Dry fit common stones around six to eight at a time. Put one half to three quarters of an inch of working mortar onto the backside of the stone and set it on the surface. Gingerly wiggle the stone while holding it until it is firmly set into place.
To finish up your art after it has dried up completely, go over the joints with mortar pushing it as far as possible into the joint. Most stone veneers can also be treated using a sealer to help stop discoloration or other unwanted effects. Ultimately your artwork is about as far away as your local hardware store.
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